so the 'restricted items' are already copied ( you can buy cheap copies of grammy awards and oscars) i've seen plenty of military badges being used in fashion, military stripes and other garments too. the medical degree part i find laughable, i don't know about the usa but where i come from you will not be arrested if you 'claim you have a medical degree' (of course if you operate or whatever) people dress in nuns habits, pope costumes, as jesus, norse and celtic gods, as beefeaters (contd)
Anonymous

(cont.) but i’m still very much of the opinion that nothing should be done to protect people from offending the people who actually adhere to the sects that hold these things ‘holy’. i don’t think there’s anything wrong with stereotypes, AS LONG as people are educated to know that stereotypes are just that. i very much agree that people should really buy the native american crafts from native americans (cont.)

(cont.) and not from huge morally indefensible companies like f21, who don’t give a shit about the people they take the inspiration for these things from. but just because one group of people consider something sacred doesn’t make it so. people should be allowed to desecrate whatever they want, as long as they never harm any humans, or destroy other people’s work (e.g. churches, burial grounds, temples etc.). i’m open to have my mind changed on this, though.

Okay.  To start, I think two things are getting mixed up in all of this:

1) cultural appropriation

2) ‘costumes’, ‘dress up’ and other forms of engaging in perpetrating stereotypes

Both piss me off, but they are not both cultural appropriation.  I’m not going to discuss the second point, just the first, because I think that’s where most of the ambivalence is in people who are just starting to think about this.  Most people already understand why playing ‘dress up’ using racist stereotypes is wrong…and if they don’t, I basically write them off as not worth the time.

Okay.  So, cultural appropriation.  I see two errors with your argument so far:

a) the appeal to common practice: people culturally appropriate all the time, thus cultural appropriation is okay and;

b) a misunderstanding of what ‘restricted’ means.

On the first issue, when cultural appropriation is taking place (as in, restricted symbols are being used/taken without permission), you cannot rely on the fact that it happens to justify it happening.  What I mean is, I’m arguing it’s wrong, and I’m not saying it’s just wrong when it’s native restricted symbols.  The fact that people do it anyway does not change a wrong into a right.  You would have to make an argument about why these symbols cannot be legitimately restricted in the first place.  What doesn’t pass the muster is saying, “well it’s wrong but other people do it so it’s okay for me to do it too”.  That’s the “he did it first!” defence that doesn’t save us as children either :D

Which brings us to b.  A lot of the things you discuss fall under the ‘costume’ category in 2, so we weed those out right away.  They aren’t cultural appropriation per se, and their level of offensiveness depends on the context (i.e. whether they perpetuate harmful stereotypes that are used to justify continuing oppression against a people).

However, while you may not be arrested for claiming to hold restricted qualifications (having an MD etc), you are nonetheless committing a fraud.  Most common law and civil law countries have specific Acts controlling certain types of professions…doctors, lawyers, architects, and so on.  These legislative regimes define who is eligible to become a member of these professions, what qualifications they must have, what obligations and duties apply and so forth.  Thus, not everyone can practice medicine, or law etc.  You can pretend to have these qualifications and you might even get away with it, but what you are doing is still probably illegal.

Now you can argue that anyone should be able to do these things and the restrictions are invalid…but I doubt you will.  There is a reason these restrictions are in place and most people can come up with good reasons for that without delving into the legislative history.

What you can’t do, is convincingly argue that because people are committing fraud by actually impersonating police officers (i.e. not just dressing up as a costume), lawyers, medical doctors and so forth, that this makes violating those restrictions ‘okay’.  That wouldn’t make any logical sense, if you actually understand and support why those restrictions exist.

Analogies are of limited use, unfortunately.  I gave analogies within western culture that would be understandable to settlers.  They are not equivalents to native cultural restrictions.  We don’t write elaborate Acts regulating who can be a warrior, and who can wear a headdress, and who can practice medicine.  Our cultural restrictions are expressed in other ways, and it’s not really that important for you to understand exactly how that works.  Not for this discussion.

It is important, however, to understand that these restrictions exist, and that they are not unimportant merely because you do not come from the culture, and do not understand the reasoning behind them.  An immigrant to Canada, coming from a nation where anyone can practice medicine (I doubt such a place actually exists though) cannot use this lack of restriction in his or home country to justify practicing medicine in Canada.  It would not be allowed.

And here is where analogies just aren’t adequate.  You aren’t living in a First Nation community, and I am not saying that you have to in order for these restrictions to apply to you.  I think they apply outside our communities too, and not just because these lands are originally ours.  Our own people are not allowed to access certain symbols because within our culture they are restricted.  Merely living outside our culture should not extinguish the restrictions and open up the floodgates to non-natives, on precisely the basis that they aren’t us.  That is basically saying that the restricted cultural symbols of all other cultures you are not a member of are open to you (but not to the people in the culture).  And frankly, that would be fucked up. 

It renders the symbol meaningless, stripping it of all its cultural context…while at the same time, the people using it claim an affinity with the culture they are taking it from.  I’m sorry, but you can’t have it both ways.  Steal our restricted shit, and don’t care…but don’t pretend that it honours us or that it is anything less than theft.  (I say this in general, I’m not directing it at you).

And like I say in the longer article, don’t get hung up on the word ‘sacred’:

I do not care if you are religious, spiritual, or atheist.  These are choices you make, and I respect them.  However, because of the turbulent history of religion in western settler philosophy (and in many other parts of the world, from whence Canadians come), the translation of terms from our languages into the word ‘sacred’ can sometimes cause trouble.  Let’s talk about that for a second.

I feel that when other cultures discuss ‘sacred’ things, some people feel obligated to reject or elevate those things because of how they feel about their own religious traditions, or their atheism.  The issue gets confused as being about ‘religion’, when that is not necessarily what is going on.

Usually when we say ‘sacred’, there are more complex terms in our own language that apply…all of which basically mean to impart that the thing in question is ‘important and meaningful in a specific way’.  When you see the term ‘sacred’, please remember that.

Also, desecration of the restricted symbols of oppressed peoples is inherently harmful, as it bolsters already institutionalised systems that continue to oppress us.  For many years, we were denied our cultural practices and our symbols by law.  We were punished for wearing these items, practicing our ceremonies, speaking our languages and so on.  That has changed, but now we see these things used against us in new ways.  Used to stereotype us as all being the same, fitting into ‘positive’ or ‘negative’ caricatures, erasing our actual traditions and culture.  Our symbols and ceremonies are being taken up by people who feel that they do not have to abide by the restrictions, and so these people (being much more numerous than those within our cultures who are allowed to wear/do these things) get to basically define what the symbols/ceremonies mean.  That is cultural erasure and it continues the process of cultural genocide. 

I’m not talking about moccasins or feather earrings.  There are many items within our cultures that are not restricted and can be used by non-natives.  That does not mean it is all up for grabs, and it certainly does not mean that taking restricted things is not harmful, or somehow an exercise of some noble human right.

I hope  that clarifies things more for you, whether you end up agreeing or not.  Also, you  might consider this….oppressed peoples, colonised peoples, do not have the institutional power to do what you claim should be done freely.  We cannot appropriate the restricted symbols of settler culture, because we would be punished for this.  I don’t want us to have some ‘equal right’ to do this mind, you, but the power imbalance involved should not be forgotten.

If you want to justify cultural appropriation…

…just point out that drinking coffee is appropriation and clearly not a bad thing, thus appropriating sacred objects is just like getting a double-double at Timmy’s.

Which logical fallacy is this, btw? 

For people who pretend they don’t understand the difference.

For people who pretend they don’t understand the difference.

houseofdonshey:

House of Donshey for k.hendrix Fall/Winter 12-13 at Miami Beach International Fashion Week.

This shit is out of hand.

houseofdonshey:

House of Donshey for k.hendrix Fall/Winter 12-13 at Miami Beach International Fashion Week.

This shit is out of hand.

Hi, this is Secret Chief, you should look up the meaning on Wikipedia. I am so sorry your heart is so full of judgement. You have no idea who we are and where we come from, and we actually have more in common than you think. We are so sorry you feel disrespected. We're simply creating little bits of art/jewelry and selling it on a little website called Etsy, it's a marketplace for artists to sell their stuff. I hope you can take this to heart. Thank you. We wish you the best.
Anonymous

Lol…did you just tell me to look on Wikipedia to find out what ‘chief’ actually means?  Hilarious!

I could care less where you come from or who you are.  You are using your poor understanding of native spiritual traditions to turn a profit which is in itself a violation of protocol.  Since I’m not an exploitative fraud, it appears we have very little in common. 

As noted on the excellent blog, Beyond Buckskin, Etsy is a breeding ground for pathetic cultural appropriation.  You’re not simply creating little bits of art/jewelery, you are capitalising on distorted and false views of native americans.  You are perpetuating stereotypes and celebrating your own ignorance.  You are engaging in colonialism, right there on your little Etsy shop.  A tiny piece in a larger puzzle of non-natives dreaming up fantasies about us and presenting them to the culturally bankrupt.

You aren’t sorry about anything…your tone quite clearly informs the reader that you have no intention of stopping, and further,  you don’t really believe you are doing anything wrong.  You are that ignorant about our cultures.  You don’t even understand the words you are using to describe your ‘products’.  If you did, you wouldn’t use them.  If you were actually native, you would be able to say that on your page and not face violating the Indian Arts and Crafts Act (good thing you aren’t trying that).  If you had any connection to our cultures, you’d cut the New Age exploitative bullshit.  From your Etsy page:

According to Wikipedia the definition of a Secret Chief is:
A transcendent cosmic authority responsible for the operation and moral calibre of the cosmos, or for overseeing the operations of an esoteric organization that manifests outwardly in the form of a magical order or lodge system. Their names and descriptions have varied through time, dependent upon those who reflect their experience of contact with them.

Ugh.  Lemme guess.  You were an Indian in a former life?

So no.  I’m not going to take your false apology to heart. 

secretchiefgoods:

Wear the divine light around your neck at all times…cosmic love. Handmade medicine bag necklace, made from vintage leather. beauty.

This is so many levels of stupid I hardly know where to begin.
If you are not a part of our cultures, what the fuck are you doing trying to poorly imitate what you don’t actually understand about our various spiritual practices?  Get your own, thanks, rather than making up caricatures of ours.
And ‘vintage leather’?  Lol.  I love how ‘vintage’ has become synonymous with ‘cool’ instead of ‘reused’ which is what this really means.  “Hey guys I just cut up some old leather chaps I found in a dumpster and now I’m going to sell it to you and pretend it has something to do with native american spirituality!’
And “secret chief?”  No, you aren’t.  Not even close.
gtfo.

secretchiefgoods:

Wear the divine light around your neck at all times…cosmic love. Handmade medicine bag necklace, made from vintage leather. beauty.

This is so many levels of stupid I hardly know where to begin.

If you are not a part of our cultures, what the fuck are you doing trying to poorly imitate what you don’t actually understand about our various spiritual practices?  Get your own, thanks, rather than making up caricatures of ours.

And ‘vintage leather’?  Lol.  I love how ‘vintage’ has become synonymous with ‘cool’ instead of ‘reused’ which is what this really means.  “Hey guys I just cut up some old leather chaps I found in a dumpster and now I’m going to sell it to you and pretend it has something to do with native american spirituality!’

And “secret chief?”  No, you aren’t.  Not even close.

gtfo.

Today, the Hall of Shame hit its 500th image mark, bringing you visual examples of cultural appropriation and out-and-out racism.  The images are by far dominated by non-native women in headdresses.  The bulk of these are non-professional images taken at parties and festivals.  However, quite a few are professionally shot images for magazines or other kinds of photo shoots.  White women are the most represented, but there are also quite a few images of women of colour wearing these headdresses as well.

Then you have the really racist photos, which I think of as the ‘costume’ photos, where the people in question put ‘war paint’ on, ‘war whoop’, or engage in other clearly stereotypical behaviours.  It is difficult to tell where ‘fashion’  and ‘costume’ are separated, and a great many of the headdress pictures also include ‘warpaint’.  Playing Indian is apparently not just hilarious fun, it is also super ironic and cool. 

Then you have the ‘art’.  Depictions of non-natives in headdresses, on t-shirts, street art, tattoos and so forth. I would lovefor there to be some sort of psychological analysis done on this trend.  What the fuck is motivating these people?  What do they think these images mean?  Why are they impervious to explanations of why what they are doing is not okay?

Certain companies are really doing their best to tap into this bizarre market.  I have seen costume headdresses being sold around the corner here in Montreal.  Luckily I’ve yet to see someone actually out in public with a headdress, because I’m not sure I could contain myself.

I want this ‘trend’ to die quickly, but it seems to be on the rise instead. 

So this isn’t really a celebration of hitting 500 images.  More like a WTF, 500?

meravie reblogged your link: The comments on this article about “Cultural Appropriation” in a left wing paper give me hope for Britain

Sorry are you actually comparing a headdress to a medical degree. Congrats you are an idiot, bye. Oh and yeah, people doing those things for art = fine. You can already buy/wear fake military medals.

I am comparing restricted symbols to restricted symbols.

You clearly have no knowledge of what the okimâwastotin (headdress) means, why or how it is restricted, and to whom it is restricted.  Which renders you essentially incompetent to have this discussion.  You have to rely on the understanding of those within the few cultures (very few btw) that use this particular style of headdress so loved by hipsters. 

It is not for you to decide what should or should not be restricted within another culture.  Just as no one outside of your society can choose which symbols are restricted (like post-secondary parchments, medals of honour and so forth). 

Doing all of those things for art = fine?  Really?  So there is no problem with faking a parchment?  No problem impersonating an officer?  Really?  Gosh I just don’t believe you.

The okimâwastotin being used outside out nations, for anything but their specific restricted purpose does not = fine.  If you wish to demand access, violating those restrictions, then you are engaged in cultural appropriation, which is essentially colonalist in nature.  And if you’re fine with doing that sort of thing, there you go.  At least be honest about what is being done, rather than attempting to make ridiculous claims that the people to whom those restricted symbols belong are somehow the ‘bad guys’.

meravie:

Yeah and Hawaiians don’t get royalties on flowery beachwear either. The person who makes the money is the one that spots that people like certain styles then invests a shedload of money on the basis of those skills in creating actual items that people actually buy.

Now if Native Americans could or would do that then they could even make money out of other people’s styles.

The companies that actually create the fashion items do not deny access to native Americans they simply go to professional designers that can do the job first time quickly to spec and understand that the garment also needs to be manufactured to a price point so their design needs to work on a myriad of levels. It just ain’t that simple. It’s the reason why fashion companies stick with pro designers rather than amateurs withe a specific ethnicity. It’s called business.

and

Cultures interact, change and borrow from each other. To decide that some of this is “off-limits”… Well, who decides? By what right? Why should anyone take notice? I loathe the Walter-Scott-land travesty of Highland dress that can be seen here; I dislike the imposition of this shortbread-tin bogus culture on the whole of Scotland, never mind the Highlands; but it exists, and there’s nothing one can do about it. A student mag here was more concerned with ‘cultural appropriation’ re: Native American and other tribal jewellery & c. than with what’s under their noses. In the end, all that matters is whether it’s tasteful, and if you don’t like it, you don’t need to play along with it.

and

‘Restricted symbols’? Sorry, no. In art, there should be no ‘restricted symbols’. No art-police, thank you.

etc


Sorry, Social Justice police, even in the most wet, left wing, social justicey paper in the UK, no one has time for your attempts to suppress freedom of expression. Whine all you want, but no one cares. Goodbye!

Oh I agree completely!  That’s why it should be legal to forge post-secondary degrees in order to be hired as a doctor…after all, freedom of expression demands that we not restrict such a ‘cultural symbol’ like a medical parchment!  In addition, dressing up as a police officer should be completely okay.  Freedom of expression!  Claiming to have the right to titles, or a knighthood…FREEDOM!  Wearing military medals in an ironic manner for kicks…FREEDOM! 

Manufacturing all of these things and selling them is what native americans should put their considerable talents towards in the future.

Anyone need a freedom-of-expression medical degree?  1 for $25 or 2 for $40!

cr0c:

would I be able to sell this to anyone?

Probably.  These kinds of images are super popular among people who are utterly and completely ignorant on the topic of indigenous peoples, past and present.  The group of folks who thinks that it’s somehow okay to create images like this, despite what it means to actual native americans. Someone will probably even want this offensive and disrespectful (not to mention highly inaccurate) image tattooed permanently on their bodies so that they can claim to admire native american culture (always singular among this type of person, never plural).  Then, when called out for this, they will claim to have a distant indigenous ancestor, as though this changes anything.  When all else fails, this person will then dredge up a native american friend who will absolve them of any responsibility for perpetuating stereotypes and engaging in the continue cultural annihilation of our cultures in the name of fashion and free speech.  Etc.

cr0c:

would I be able to sell this to anyone?

Probably.  These kinds of images are super popular among people who are utterly and completely ignorant on the topic of indigenous peoples, past and present.  The group of folks who thinks that it’s somehow okay to create images like this, despite what it means to actual native americans. Someone will probably even want this offensive and disrespectful (not to mention highly inaccurate) image tattooed permanently on their bodies so that they can claim to admire native american culture (always singular among this type of person, never plural).  Then, when called out for this, they will claim to have a distant indigenous ancestor, as though this changes anything.  When all else fails, this person will then dredge up a native american friend who will absolve them of any responsibility for perpetuating stereotypes and engaging in the continue cultural annihilation of our cultures in the name of fashion and free speech.  Etc.